Location Report for Kuwait
Last update: 21 June, 2007

Kuwait lies at the head of the Arabian Gulf, between latitude 28 and 30 north and longitude 46 and 48 east. The land area of Kuwait is approximately 7,500 square miles, or roughly the size of Wales and is for the most part, flat. It has no rivers and no lakes. It is bounded on the west and north by Iraq, on the east by the Arabian Gulf and on the south by Saudi Arabia. There are nine islands, the largest of which are Failaka, Bubiyan and Warba, although none of them are inhabited. The government has set a population limit of 1.2 million of which 600,000 will be Kuwaiti. The Head of State is the Amir, who has appointed a Prime Minister (who happens to be a relative) to oversee all things political.

The country is split for administrative purposes into five Govenerates, being Capital, Hawalli, Farwaniya, Jahra & Ahmedi, however a look at a map will see three distinct areas of habitation, (1) the city and its suburbs, stretching south to the 6^th ring road, (2) a strip stretching from Messilah and heading south to Ahmedi, and (3) Jahra in the West. 

Click here for a selection of maps of Kuwait
Or here to learn more about Kuwait's Government

Arabic is the official language although English is very widely used and all road signs etc. are bilingual. English is also the official language for major contracts. Kuwaitis do not expect westerners to know their language and there is generally little difficulty in making oneself understood in English. It does however help oil the wheels if one comes out with the odd phrase or two of Arabic, particularly those of courtesy and greeting. Do not be afraid that by using the odd phrase an Arab will assume that you have a wide knowledge of his language and will launch into a long spiel by way of a reply; it rarely happens that way. The more usual reaction is that he gives you an appreciative smile and then proceeds to show you how good his English is. Most people on arrival soon pick up phrases like ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ and also acquire the ability to count, i.e., to find out prices; it is also necessary to learn a new set of written numbers as our so-called "Arabic numerals" are different from theirs. Beyond that stage, few expats venture and even fewer delve into the mysteries of the Arabic alphabet which is written from right to left.

Hindi and Tagalog are also widely spoken in their own respective circles.

The ambient temperature is hot (to say the least) in summer, with official temperatures of 50°C being registered and 55 being the unofficial high in July and August. Humidity at this time of year is usually very low, due to the Northwesterly winds being hot and dry. Southeasterly winds, usually hot and damp, occur during July and October. Humidity can reach the 90% range at this time, making it extremely unpleasant, and spectacle wearers should take care when leaving air conditioning as a thick fog soon appears. What may also surprise you is how cold a winter morning can be. It has been known to approach zero, however hell very rarely freezes over. Sand storms are frequent especially in summer. Rain is almost nonexistent and comes in short bursts, when it can be bothered, and amounts to some six inches a year, however, due to poor drainage floods do occur, especially in low lying areas such as underpasses and basements, and deaths were reported last year due to not realizing that the road under a bridge isn’t actually flat. Summer is deemed to run from May to October & Autumn and Spring can be equated to an English summer, only dry! As an obvious word of warning, if you are a little thin on top (or have short cropped hair), wear a hat; a sun burnt scalp is not pleasant.
Todays Weather

The lack of provision for social life arises from a basic cultural difference in Arab life in that they are extended- family-orientated and have fewer social contacts outside the family circle, whereas the reverse is true for Westerners. The Arabs spend most of their time visiting family members’ homes and have less need for external provisions for social life of the kind we would take for granted. A further, direct consequence is that social contact between Arabs and Westerners is largely nonexistent, no matter how friendly they are in work. Another constraint on social life is that a bachelor is considered a dangerous man to an Arab and as such is a threat to his wife and daughters. He is therefore to be avoided socially. Such social gatherings that do exist are segregated into "families" and "bachelors", often by simply restricting bachelors to the most unpopular times of day or week. Some of the more enlightened clubs and hotels are free from this practice. Segregation of the sexes is a fact of life and Arabs will defend their opinions on the subject with all the fervour of someone who knows that not everyone agrees with it. Even in relatively liberal and cosmopolitan Kuwait, some are required to wear the veil and many wear the obayah. In court, the testimony of one man is as good as that of two women. The effect of this on Western women is less than in some other Middle Eastern countries since possibly the average Kuwaiti is more tolerant and in any case, he is outnumbered by more liberal expats. It is not so vital for women to cover up legs and arms, although some discretion is needed and one would not venture into the more traditional shopping areas like the souks or into a Co-op clad in shorts (then again neither should men). Conversely, in the hotels and more fashionable suburbs, the range of clothes worn is almost of Western standards. Western women never, however, feel entirely comfortable in the presence of a majority of Arab men as the latter’s upbringing probably gives them some strange notions about women, particularly non-Moslem ones. It is suspected that inside the Arab home, women play a much more dominant role than outside; this gives them a curious advantage in that they are treated to a Westerner’s eyes, with an exaggerated old-world courtesy.

Hospitality and generosity are usually deeply ingrained and genuine, and considered high virtues. A person who regularly practices these virtues gains the respect and reputation of not having been negligent in assuming his or her responsibility.

Perhaps because of their extensive contact with other cultures while trading and schooling abroad and because of the potentially potent mix of diverse ethnic and religious groups, Kuwaitis have a long tradition of tolerance. Kuwaiti culture and domestic politics are able to accommodate citizens and groups whose ethnic homelands may be rivals. The tolerance extended to these and others, however, must function within the bounds of Arab traditions, Muslim ideals, the security of the entire group, and respect for public honour and face.

A feature of the Hejira calendar is the holy month of Ramadan which according to the lunar cycle should run for 28 days. During this period Muslims are required to fast by day, however they make up for this by partying all night, and Ramadan can be thought of as a month of Christmases. The fasting is taken very seriously and in public places, which includes offices, even non-Muslims must abide by Islam which means no eating drinking or smoking (although due to a Sept. 1995 law all public smoking is now illegal) during daylight hours, although for the expat a room is normally set aside for meals, hidden from normal view.

Everyone in Kuwait is greeted with a handshake and entering a meeting, you will be expected to greet everyone in the room this way. When attending meetings, or any social gathering, it is considered discourteous to refuse tea (chai) when offered.

As Kuwait is an Islamic state, the importation, production and sale of alcohol is prohibited. (But it still happens) and it is considered discourteous to show the soles of one’s feet.

Local time is 3 hours ahead of GMT. The Hejira calendar is in use, so the weekend is Thursday and Friday, however for some companies you can expect to work some of Thursday. Government departments work 7.00 till 2.00 Saturday to Wednesday except Ramadan which changes by 11 or 12 days each year depending on the cycle of the moon, in 1999 will be around December 20th for 28 days, and all are shut for public holidays, most of which also change except 1st January. Banks open 8.00 till 2.00 Sunday to Thursday, some also open one evening a week (usually around pay day) but this practice is variable and taken on chance. Shop hours are an unknown quantity but core hours are definitely 9.00 till 12.00 and 4.30 till 9.00 Saturday till Thursday, Friday is pot luck. The larger food stores stay open all day and the Sultan Centres are open 24 hours. (See Shopping)

Fixed dates include: New Year’s Day (Jan 1), Kuwaiti National Day (Feb 25), Liberation Day (Feb 26)

Variable holidays are based on sighting the moon and include: Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan), Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice), Islamic New Year, Birth of the Prophet & Leilat al-Meiraj (Ascension of the Prophet).

There are apparently no real health risks in Kuwait, however vaccination against TB is recommended, and cholera and yellow fever is required for those coming from infected areas. The major exception is a particularly nasty strain of flu which is prevalent at the end of Summer, when the temperature drops, this can cause great discomfort and sleepless nights, with the possibility of a couple of days off work to the less robust. Another problem is that of dehydration and as a consequence plenty water must be drunk, especially for those with jobs having an outdoor involvement. Note that all residents in Kuwait must undergo an AIDS test, with a positive result meaning immediate expulsion. (See also Medical Facilities)

Kuwait has an Israel boycott which means that Israelis and those having an Israeli stamp in their passport are not admitted. Visas are required by all except those from GCC states. The only other exception being a ‘No Objection Certificate’ but this must still be obtained prior to departure. A medical must be passed in order to complete your residency procedure, which includes the now obligatory AIDS test. It is advisable to bring originals of all certificates in your possession, these should include, but not limited to, Birth, Marriage, (Death?) Qualifications, British/International driving license etc. For security lodge copies of them in a safe place in the UK. To speed the residency paperwork on it’s way it would be useful to bring at least 20 passport sized photographs (some without glasses if you wear them). Once in possession of a residency stamp you may enter and leave Kuwait at will, however if working for a government department a leave letter is required however this is usually a formality. For identification purposes you will be required to carry a civil ID, issued to you on completion of your residency procedure.

The Kuwaiti Embassy in UK is located at 45-46 Queensgate, London SW7. Tel. 0171 589 4533, Fax 0171 589 2976.

Embassy of the State of Kuwait

2 Albert Gate, London SW1X 7JU

Tel: (0171) 590 3400. Fax: (0171) 259 5042. Opening hours: 0900-1230 (Visa section).

Kuwait Information Centre

48 Queen’s Gate, London SW7 5HR
Tel: (0171) 589 2929. Fax: (0171) 225 0879. E-mail: kuwait@dircon.co.uk

For the Kuwaiti Embassy in U.S.A. try here
For the Kuwaiti Embassy in Canada try here

(See also Residency)

The local currency is the Kuwaiti Dinar, usually written "KD", sometimes before the amount, sometimes after. It is subdivided not into the normal 100 but into 1000 fils. There are 5, 10, 20, 50 & 100 fil coins and ¼, ½, 1, 5, 10 & 20KD notes. At the time of writing the exchange rate is approx. £2.00 to the Dinar and closely follows that of the US Dollar. It is freely convertible and has no restrictions, although you may not find any at some UK banks or airports (definitely not at Schipol). Both cash and traveler’s cheques are readily converted at the various money changers, but it would help to bring about 20KD in case of any hassle at the airport. All major credit cards are accepted in most shops (often with 4% surcharge for all but the large ones), however the Co-op for instance only accepts Visa (with reluctance) and your cards will work in some ATMs and can be used over the counter to obtain a cash advance. (See also arrivals below). Expats are actively encouraged by banks to open a local account and whilst Islam prohibits making a profit from your fellow man, they do offer expat accounts, which bear interest that is often than a UK current account. If you are to be paid into a UK bank account, check the possibility of getting some of your salary paid locally, as transfer charges can be excessive. The reverse is also true, though to a lesser extent if you will be salaried in Kuwait but wish to send money home - banks will telex money, but a cheaper alternative is to use one of the many "Remittance Services". Two that are recommended are Bahrain Exchange Company - tel. 246 0828 and Dollarco Exchange Company - tel. 241 2767. Both are fast and efficient, although you will have to go to their offices with cash and a note of the account details to which the money is to be sent. The latter will issue you with a plastic card with a number that will access your details from their computer database, making the transaction that much quicker. A new feature in Kuwait banking is that of Internet banking. Whilst still in it’s infancy, NBK offer many services via "Watani Online", such as local bill payment and credit transfers via the web (this process is being overseen by a Brit)

Other Kuwait banks include:
BKME 
Commercial Bank 
Gulf Bank
Burgan Bank

Although Kuwait is an Islamic State, unlike Saudi Arabia, they are quite tolerant towards other religions, some of which are represented in the guise of:

Anglican, St. Paul’s Church, Tel. 398 3252 or 398 5929

Presbyterian, National Evangelical Church, Tel. 243 1087 or 240 7195

Roman Catholic, Church of the Holy Family, Tel. 243 4228 or 243 4637

Church of our Lady of Arabia, tel. 398 2465

If you do not already belong to a "Frequent Flyer" scheme, then it is advisable to join one now. Flights to Kuwait have been known to be double booked and passengers removed. Those holding FF cards for that airline are given preference, although the airline should compensate you if you are bumped off. Another privilege of membership is that you are often given a bigger luggage allowance enabling you to bring out all the things you can’t get in Kuwait. (See Shopping)

By normal standards, Kuwait International Airport is small, with only a dozen or so gates, formed into a T shape, however the number of flights landing there is also small, so you will always land at a pier and not have to suffer the heat until you are outside the arrivals hall. Major airlines serving Kuwait are Kuwait Airways (dry flights), Gulf Air, Emirates, British Airways & KLM (all wet). It is almost impossible to get lost once off the plane - basically follow everyone else. If you are desperate when you land, the toilets are located downstairs, either in the centre of the duty-free concourse (behind the telephones) or behind the tills of the two cafés at the end of either arm of the "T".Also in the duty-free area is the only bank in the airport. If you don’t have any Kuwait Dinars, then change some here. Proceed to the centre of the T and go down stairs, here you will find immigration. If you need a visa/work permit/NOC then do a U-turn at the right of the stairs and here you will find the visa desk, although it is often unmanned. Once in possession of you visa etc. turn back around and join the now enormous queue for passport control. Everyone is treated with suspicion particularly if you are of Asian descent, however western expats do tend to receive a little more courtesy. Once through this desk, you will find a couple of policemen (these are the guys in beige uniforms) who will check your passport again. This formality over with you can now search for your luggage. One word of warning here: "Fragile" seems to be Hindi/Urdu for "throw heavily onto the conveyor" so try to carry your breakables with you. If your bag doesn’t seem to be there, try looking at the end of the conveyor, as instead of looping round, your bags will be removed and left in a pile by the baggage handlers. If you are lazy, or your luggage is particularly heavy, a porter can be hired for ¼KD per trolley. Now walk over to customs desks, still in the main baggage hall, where you will be searched. Sometimes it is a cursory glance, sometimes thorough. They are mainly looking for alcohol, which although illegal, every westerner will try his luck, as the only punishment at present is confiscation! Other banned items include drugs of any kind, pork products (although these are rarely taken off you) cordless radio telephones, pornography (sometimes videos are confiscated, but returned after checking if OK) and for some strange reason, manhole covers! From here it is out into the arrivals hall where someone may be waiting for you. Bear in mind though, that when a traveler from the Indian subcontinent returns his/her whole family and friends will be waiting for them, so be patient or agree to meet, say, at the car rental desks to the left. If you are doing your own thing, turn left. Along here you will find the car rental desks and if you are lucky, one of them will be manned. For reservations, try Hertz on 431 9326 (24hr) or Avis. If you are hoping for public transport, you are in luck. The Airport taxi drivers work 24 hours and have fixed rates. There is no fare over 7KD for most of the parts of Kuwait you would want to stay in, with the nearest hotels being about 4KD. There is a list of destinations stuck to the car window, so try to find the area you are staying in, in advance. There are currently moves afoot to get taxi drivers to install meters, but red tape moves slowly in Kuwait

A new service was recently sent to me (May 2007) expatserviceskuwait.com offer an orientation package to get you up and running in Kuwait

Standards of accommodation in Kuwait are very high, with most hotels being 5star, however, these are all the same price at KD57.500 (last time I checked), as set by the government so the only real choice here is to choose one close to where you will be working or socializing.

5 star hotels are: Le Meridien, City, Tel. 245 5550. & Kuwait Plaza, City, Tel. 243 6686, Fax 241 2198, E-mail: plaza@ncc.moc.kw. These two are handy for shopping, with the Muthanna Complex being immediately between the two (the latter having direct access).

Sheraton, City, Tel. 242 2055, Fax 244 8032. This one is on the coast side of the city and is the easiest one to get out of!

Safir International, Dasman, Tel. 253 0000, Fax 256 3797. The Safir is not particularly handy for anything except TGIF & Fuddruckers, both on the beach opposite (see Beaches later).

Crowne Plaza (Holiday Inn), Farwaniya, Tel. 474 2000, Fax 473 2020. E-mail: crowne@qualitynet.netThis hotel is the closest to the airport has several excellent restaurants and probably the best gym in the country. The Nautilus Fitness Centre membership is open to nonresident but the fees are negotiable on an individual basis.

Messilah Beach Hotel, Messilah, Tel. 562 4111, Fax 562 9402, E-mail: mbhotel-kwt@usa.net. Here we have just about the only hotel that helps the expat community to enjoy itself, being the host to the annual Raft Race. (See Also Beaches)

SAS Radisson, Salwa, Tel. 575 6000, Fax 575 0155, E-mail: Again we have some good eating, a reasonable gym, and hosts of many Quiz Nights. Chalets are available for long term guests and this is the nearest hotel to the (un)official Hash Bar. (See recreation)

At the time of writing (April 2001) there is the new "Mangaf Hilton" being built to the south of the city, which will be the hotel to choose if you are in the oil industry as it is nearest to KOC’s offices in Ahmedi.

3 star hotels are still of high quality and the one that usually comes highly recommended is The Oasis Hotel. This is located in the banking district of the City, has it’s own parking, one of the best Indian restaurants in Kuwait and is run by the same group as the SAS Radisson, meaning you can use the SAS facilities such as gym, pool, etc. They can be contacted on Tel. 246 5489, Fax 246 5490.

Wherever you are staying, don’t forget to ask for a discount. These apply to weekdays, weekends, and long stay.

(See also Dining Out)

Due to the ever potential threat from Iraq it is advisable to register your residence at your National Embassy as soon as possible after arrival and you will be given contact details of your local warden, whose job it is to inform you of any change of status etc. Registration is often done whilst applying for a Kuwaiti Driving License (see later). The British Embassy being on Arabian Gulf Street (the coast road), near to the famous Kuwait Towers. The postal address is: P.O. Box 2, Safat 13001, Kuwait. Tel.:240 3324/5/6/7 or 240 3334/5/6 Fax: 240 7395 or 240 6799 or check them out here

Should you be politically active you can also register to vote here too.

The U.S. Embassy is located in Mishref. Their address is P.O.Box 77, Safat 13001, Kuwait. Tel. 539 5307, fax: 538 0282 visit them on the web
Here is a link to the French Embassy

Driving (always) and navigating (at first) can be quite dispiriting and the kamikaze nature of Kuwaiti driving standards should never be underestimated. The good, wide roads look deceptively easy to the novice until he has his first near miss (within five minutes of taking the wheel) and his first crunch (probably within his first month). Most British expats find that driving on the "wrong" side of the road is the least of their problems (it’s a strange day when you don’t see the aftermath of at least one accident). Road signs are in Arabic but most have English subtitles, however most of these do tend to be located at turn offs, rather than just before them, making last minute maneuver an everyday occurrence. The "slow" lane on a three-lane road is the middle one, also making for interesting negotiations as traffic merging from the right immediately crosses two lanes of faster moving traffic. Unlike Saudi, women are granted the privilege of mobility but they still value lives very lowly and regular sightings of children on the dashboard are the norm (we call them "interactive airbags"). Seat belts are compulsory, though few locals wear them as can be seen by the huge number of wrecks along the major roads with holes in the windscreen. All cars here are air conditioned, most with automatic transmission, rental cars tending to be Japanese compacts or American tanks, the only exception apparently being Avis who offer Opel Vectras. For long term lease cars try: Al Sayer (Toyota agent) on 243 4325, Autolease (Mazda agent) on 484 6999, Rent-A-Honda on 484 8470, Al Mulla (Mitsubishi/Dodge) on 243 1434 or Mustafa Karam (various) on 240 8168. There is no restriction on purchasing your own vehicle, new or second hand, and prices are extremely cheap but remember to get fully comprehensive insurance. Cars over three years old require an MOT which an absolute farce. As in most middle eastern countries there is a pecking order when it comes to apportioning the blame of an accident, i.e., A Kuwaiti is never to blame, even if he/she rear ends you! However if a westerner runs into the rear of say, an Indian, then the Indian is at fault - totally unfair, but true. Petrol stations are open 24 hours to provide the local boy racers all night entertainment. The price of petrol without UK duty etc. is a laughable 60/65 fils per litre (12p ish). The road system is fairly Americanized, being based around blocks and it is difficult to get lost with the exception of Ahmedi - an oil town that looks like American suburbia. The motorways are numbered in intervals of 5s, radiating South from the city centre, which is on a Northerly point on the coast, and are intersected by ring roads, of which there are seven (the fourth should be avoided in rush hour). Areas bounded by these main roads are subdivided numerically with major streets being named and smaller ones numbered, thus a residential address might be "Salwa, Block 4, Street 3, Building 987, Floor 3, Apartment 6". Speed camera housings are in abundance, however the cameras and film are not, so you will often see cameras moved around each week, sometimes turned on without film, so they flash, but do not take a picture - beware of "Traffic Week" though - this is usually announced the week the film arrives! A new idea has just arrived in Kuwait - mobile speed cameras. These are mounted in the back of small Suzuki Jeeps, pointing out of the rear window. The advantage of these over fixed cameras, is that the driver stays  with the camera to ensure it is not shot at (I kid you not - the locals don't like them one bit)

Public transport is good here, consisting of pickup trucks for the desperate or tight fisted, taxis, of which there are two types; orange cabs (for emergencies only, as they will often stop and pick up further passengers en route) and limousines (these will pick up from home etc. or can be hired from an office), and a good bus service, sometimes with, but often without air conditioning, which will get you from outlying areas into the city centre for about 400 fils (or 500 fils with a/c), for women there is some segregation in that the front two rows of seats are allocated ladies only. KPTC's website is still under construction at: www.kptc.com. Taxi fares are extremely variable and should always be agreed before a journey; meters are nonexistent. (see arrivals) All public transport and goods vehicles have orange license plates, private cars have white, and Government vehicles blue.

Renting is the only way an expat can get a house in Kuwait and this is a simple process with most reputable real estate companies advertising in the papers or a drive around the area you fancy will see many "For Rent" signs - the obvious ones are in English, and tend to have tolerant landlords, others are in Arabic (although it’s obvious what the sign says) and should be treated with a little caution by the Westerner. Flats are available furnished or not, the difference in price for a particular area giving a rough indication what is included. For a furnished flat most furnishings provided are only a year or so old at the most. These are adequate for your needs for the first few months, however if you feel the need to upgrade, for example fitting a bar, it is at your own cost. Towels and bedding are some times provided by your employer and if you are lucky the previous occupants will have left you some hangers. Unlike some other Arab countries with compound life, expats and locals may share the same apartment block so discretion may be required in certain areas, check with your landlord. Where compounds are virtually nonexistent, predominantly expat tower blocks abound - two of the major ones being Fintas Towers (rent approx. KD500 min) and Fahd Al Sultan Complex (1 Bed from KD180) these tend to have better facilities such as Satellite TV, Gym, Security and parking . Expat areas where Westerners tend to gather are (but are not limited to) in the North, Salwa, Salmiya (the main shopping area outside the city), Jabriya & Mishref and towards the South, Fintas, Fahaheel, Mangaf, Mahboula and Ahmedi although the latter is almost exclusively an oil town owned by KOC (Kuwait Oil Company). Rent varies from KD230/month for a furnished one bed flat to KD1300 for a six-bed villa. Rental prices appear to be all inclusive but check before you sign and be sure to take a reader of Arabic with you as agreements are rarely written in English. A phone call will normally see any repairs carried out reasonably quickly, however it helps if you are keen on DIY. One point to look for when choosing your accommodation is covered parking; as the inside of a car can reach 70ºC making touching the steering impossible without first removing your socks to use as gloves. Another point to note is that of noise pollution - Check the vicinity of the nearest mosque as the sound of earlier morning prayer call can be quite alarming, and the sound of locals collecting friends by honking their horn at all hours is annoying, as is a neighbour’s cockerel! If you get the chance, opt for double glazing.

As you will probably notice when you arrive, Kuwait is a big building site, and as such, all rent prices are negotiable, with one expat knocking down the rent on a three-bed basement with private pool, from KD550 to KD350. Again, at the time of writing, it is said that there are nearly 14,000 empty apartments in Kuwait so it should, in theory, be a renters market. Most of the accommodation is however light and modern and once settled into they can be made to look quite attractive however there is no getting away from whitewashed walls.

Three major contacts are:

Frost Real Estate - American run furnished/serviced accommodation - Tel. 564 1789, Fax 563 8012, E-mail frostre@hotmail.com

Guide Real Estate - British run unfurnished flats - Tel. 574 0256, Fax 574 0257

Experts Real Estate - Indian run, but know the value of web advertising - Tel 888777, Fax 245 3769, E-mail Weqyanre@qualitynet.net

A new service was recently sent to me (May 2007) expatserviceskuwait.com offer an orientation package to get you up and running in Kuwait

Also, see the ads in Arab/Kuwait Times for apartment for rent.

Crime is quite rare, and what there is tends to be fairly minor, however most crime tends to be in the overcrowded Asian parts of town. Groups of 5 or more people out late at night are also seen as a threat and can be taken in by "Competent Security Personnel" for questioning. There are regular police road blocks checking for paperwork to cut down on illegal immigrants. It is also worth noting that almost every Kuwaiti, seems to be a policeman, and there appears to be no "ordinary constable" rank, as every uniform has at least one stripe; when in doubt ask for the captain.

The threat from Iraq in the north is ever present, however there is a large military presence in the form of both British and U.S. warships in the Gulf, an RAF squadron of Tornados, U.S. A10 bombers and regular troop maneuvers on the Saudi border provide an adequate deterrent, although the average expat does not really feel this threat.

The local postal system is inefficient and letters can take weeks to travel literally a few meters, which contrasts greatly with air mail to and from the UK which can take as little as 3 to 5 days. A Post Office Box is recommended and only costs KD5 per year, however post does arrive at your residential address. Parcels can take a little longer and may have to go to either the Ministry of the Interior to be opened and checked, or to the main post office in Shuwaikh, you should receive notice of this at your box or door mat, by way of a green card. Of late, with the explosion of Internet Shopping, parcels from the likes of Amazon.Com seem to get through unscathed and will be waiting for you in your box unopened (if they are too big to fit , you will get a slip of white paper to notify that it has arrived). Also available are various courier services, e.g., TNT, D.H.L., FEDEX. Outgoing mail is OK but check first whether your company has a regular mailbag home before using it. It is generally best if you can take your mail to the post office, but if this is not possible there are a few post boxes dotted around (there’s one outside the Sultan Centre in Salwa) and occasionally they do get emptied. At the time of writing there are a few "Royal Mail" guys, showing the locals how it should be done.

A little warning here before we go on. For Government departments I have not listed phone numbers or postal addresses as they are a complete waste of time (and also occupy 30 pages in the phone book!). Where in the UK you can get a phone line etc., by mail and a quick call, in Kuwait everything has to be done in person. This often means carrying every document you think you’ll need (and some you don’t) to each office, and carry lots of cash. You have now been warned.

Also of note is that visiting cards are very widely used. If you are working for a reputable company you will be given one that is printed on both sides - one in English, the other in Arabic - to save embarrassment, have it proof read before committing it to the printer - Alan in Arabic sounds curiously like Elaine, and often forenames and surnames are reversed, e.g. Smith John

Do be patient. Appointments and requests may be delayed by more pressing and higher priority demands (like cups of tea and phone calls to friends).

The telephone service is run by the Ministry of Communication, with offices in all the major post offices (the ones with grey concrete communication towers on top). Within Kuwait all calls/faxes are free, however the cost of an international phone line is excessive (KD500 deposit unless you work for a government department) with call charges on top of that of 1KD/minute to UK. An alternative for calls to outside Kuwait is an "Interkey" or "Telecard" which provides the user a PIN to key in and gives international access. These cards are available from Sultan Centres, Co-ops and Post Offices at a cost of 2, 5 or 10KD, or a Gold Card which is infinitely renewable by credit card. Overseas calls can also be made from the larger post offices, however, most expats arrange for their families to call them at set times as calls from UK are a lot cheaper. It may be worth having a clause written into your contract to have the international line to ease matters. Note that U.S. style phone points are the order of the day so check your modems etc., before traveling. The cost of a line for a year is KD30, with an additional KD30 for a new line connection. The IDD code for Kuwait is 00 965, there are no exchange numbers however local numbers are distinguishable as 56* is Salwa, 37* is Fintas/Mahboula, 39*is Ahmedi and 24* is City. Once more, with the advent of the Internet, services such as Hot Telephone & Net2Phone work well and cut costs dramatically, though you should have your line checked as some are capable of 49.3k whilst another next door may only have 14.4k.

Phone books are not available from the MOC but are found at the Sultan Centre. Their supply is free though very infrequent so when they arrive (usually stacked up at the checkouts) it is wise to grab a handful for yourself, your friends, and your colleagues.

The big craze here is the Mobile Phone. Everyone who’s nobody seems to have one, but where the cost of the phone seems expensive compared to UK "free with cornflakes" offers, the price of calls in negligible (my last monthly bill was 345fils (70p)! The recommendation is that you bring your mobile from UK (if you already have one) and buy a line here from MTC (Mobile Telecom Company - Located next to the Co-ops in Salmiya & Mishref) or "Watania Telecom" (also know as NMTC). As with everything else in Kuwait, get there early to guarantee they have any lines available for that day. A Phone+Line combination is now being offered for about KD50 and the cost of caller ID, messaging and call waiting has been reduced from KD50 per year to KD1 to entice customers! Also recently introduced is Eezee cards, these are available just about everywhere, including the airport arrivals lounge, and get you a prepaid card, that you can top up.

The Emergency number for Kuwait is 777, but you may have trouble as not all operators speak English.

Electricity throughout Kuwait is 240v 50Hz with British style13 amp 3-pin square type power outlets and is usually included in your rent (even were it not, it costs 2fils/unit (0.4p)) unfortunately most appliances bought in Kuwait come with American two pin plugs, and if this wasn’t bad enough, most flats have only one or two single outlets in each room, resulting in Christmas tree adapters for Hifi and kitchen appliances. My new flat has plumbing for a washing machine, but no power point on that side of the kitchen! Tap water is desalinated and fluoridated and almost drinkable from the special filter tap in all flats but is it advisable to boil it first, however you may prefer bottled water to be absolutely sure. Cooking when not electric, BBQ or nuke is by bottled gas, available from outlets usually located next to a Co-op and cost ½KD for a large bottle which should last at least a couple of months, with one expat’s lasting a year!

Maid services are widely available, with live in maids only allowed to families. A one day a week service can be obtained from Indian, Bangladeshi or Filipina girls for up to 30KD per flat per month. This price includes all cleaning and laundry / ironing but not cooking. Other services are available on request. Many advertise their services in the local English language papers. The residence fee for a live in maid is about KD200 for the first year and KD10 for each subsequent year, and the wages tend to be in the area of KD80 per month. Each residence also comes with a "Hariss" who will clean the communal areas and wash your car, the latter you will have to pay for yourself and costs about KD5 a month for a daily wipe over with a damp rag.

The Education system in Kuwait is two tiered, although the expat would not send his children to the lower tier, being the state Islamic schools.

The expat type schools all seem to have permutations of the same few words - Kuwait, British/English, Gulf and School. So a quick look through the phone book would find: Gulf English School, Kuwait English School, British School of Kuwait etc. most of these (and more beside) have a high percentage of western expat teachers and "helpers" (handy if your wife is in that line). All the schools cater for all ages, from Kindergarten, through to "A" level and are run primarily by Western Heads, with Kuwaiti owners. Annual Fees vary from school to school (but not much) and are in the vicinity of: Kindergarten KD900 per annum, Infants (5-8) KD1500, Juniors (9-12) KD1700 & Seniors (12-16) KD1900 - A level students are more still, these fees do not include uniforms which are compulsory, but a discount may be offered for a second child. A school bus is usually available at extra cost for children in outlying areas. Some of the larger, better-known schools are listed below:

British School of Kuwait, Tel.: 562 1701, Fax: 562 4903. Website: www.bsk.edu.kw

Gulf English School, Tel.: 565 7579, Fax: 565 0758. Website: www.ges.edu.kw

Kuwait English School, Tel.: 565 5216, Fax 562 9356. E-mail keschool@qualitynet.net

Kuwait National English School, Tel.: 265 6904, Fax: 265 2459

New English School, Tel.: 531 9921, Fax: 531 9924

The English School Fahaheel, Tel.: 371 7263, Fax: 371 5458 E-mail: esf@ncc.moc.kw, Website: www.skee.com

The English School, Salmiya, Tel.:563 7205/6, Fax: 563 7147. E-mail: Registar@tes.edu.kw, Website: www.tes.edu.kw

American School of Kuwait: Tel. 266 4341, Fax: 265 0438, E-mail: ask@ask.edu.kw, Website: www.state.gov

Universal American School, Tel.: 561 5857, Fax: 562 5343 E-mail: elmo@ncc.moc.kw

The British Council has an English lending library with a limited range of fiction and reference works and is available for a modest fee Tel. 251 5512, Fax 255 1376. English books are available from bookshops, but at a premium and unless you actually like Jeffery Archer it is recommended to bring works by your favourite author with you. For the widest selection, try the Family bookshop in Salmiya, Tel. 571 4340, Fax 573 7392, or The Kuwait Bookshop in the basement of the Al-Muthanna Complex in the city, Tel. 242 4266, Fax 2420558.

Most UK papers are available on a next day basis and Kuwait has two English language papers, The Kuwait Times and The Arab Times, The Arab being the more popular. Note that the Thursday Telegraph is at a premium (for some strange reason) and will usually sell out within an hour. For UK papers try the Sultan Centre Supermarkets, or The Kuwait Bookshop.

BBC World Service is available on both radio and satellite TV, and there are four mainstream English FM radio stations: AFRTS (U.S. Forces) 107.9 - a good mix of new and old, somewhat akin to Radio 1, AFRTS2 (the other U.S. forces station) 104.3 - mostly chat, with motoring, computer & gardening programs etc., a bit radio 3ish & Voice of America 95.2 - News and views. The local english language station is "Super Station" (Radio Kuwait) 99.7 & 92.5 - great if you like disco/(c)rap and tedious female DJs.

Local TV has three channels, Local, English and Sport the latter of which invariably shows English Premier league football highlights. The area is well covered by satellites in the guise of Showtime (Paramount/Nickelodeon, The Movie Channel, TVLand (Drama etc),Showtime Sport (Premier League Football), MTV, Cartoon Network and business channels), Orbit (ESPN Sports, Super Movies, America Plus, Fun Channel & Disney Channel) & Star TV (Star Movies, Star World (Baywatch, Simpsons & X Files) and a whole load of Hindi stuff).

Video shops are popular although a recent clamp down on piracy has seen a marked improvement in quality, and, as a result, an increase in price. For 6KD heavily censored and arabic subtitled films are available, or for 3KD an under-the-counter illegal demo copy can be had of all the latest releases. Most expat style flats come with a satellite receiver provided, TVs are dirt cheap, as are video recorders (remember to get a multi system one with PAL/SECAM as most are American style NTSC only).

HI-FI requirements can either be brought from home or bought locally. CDs are available at UK prices and cassettes abound at KD1.5 for an original or KD1 for a dodgy Indonesian copy (good for try before you buy).

Computer hardware and software are widely available here, usually 2-3 weeks behind UK and as usual Pirate software abounds (2KD a copy). A CompuServe node is available (at a premium - ask about surcharges, as I canceled my subscription when I received a $150 bill) and Internet/E-mail subscription is available from KD10 per month for 5 hours usage, with a further 600fils/hour (£1.20) there after or unlimited accounts starting at KD25 per month. These are available from either KEMS, or Qualitynet, although there are pros and cons to each - the former has slow lines and ropey connections, the latter suffers form very heavy censorship - you pays your money, you takes your choice.

Recreation:

All the usual expat activities are available, though some are harder to find than others. A rough guide follows:

Hashing, as usual, is popular amongst the expat community, with four groups meeting in Kuwait. On a Thursday is Q8H3, Saturday is the Kuwait Saturday Hash (imaginative eh?) , the second Friday of each month sees the Bedouin Black Hash run and the las Friday is the turn of the Bike Hash. They can be contacted via Sarah Leggett

For music lovers, there are the Kuwait singers, contact 563 7787 or 563 8124, Ahmedi Music Group can be contacted on 372 8464 or 372 9689 and a newly formed Folk Singing group contacted via Mike Smith

For the more energetic, health clubs abound at all the major hotels, though membership may be a restrictive factor, that said, you can usually get family membership at a reduced rate, so if you are single try to find a "wife" to share the cost. There is a regular squash league and occasional tournaments at the Holiday Inn, as well as being available at some of the larger tower blocks. Tennis is also available at most hotels as are the better swimming pools and 10 pin bowling alleys. There is a public pool, but is strictly segregated and the local boys tend to make it a dangerous pastime.

Sailing in Catamarans (Messilah Baeach Catamaran Sailing Club) and Yachts (Kuwait Offshore Sailing Association (KOSA)) can be enjoyed in almost ideal conditions for much of the year. Further details are available from John Morley who participates in both classes on 539 4937 or 574 5111 or try Messilah Beach Hotel

Kuwait has 2 darts leagues both of which are highly competitive, whilst being very sociable. The Premier Darts League is organised by Andy Chillman whose office phone number is 265 8535, home tel. 534 2648 & E-mail andrewc@paci.gov.kw, or take a look at their web sites: or http://members.tripod.com/premier-darts-league and the Kuwait Darts League is run by Cliff Lindley on 372 6299

Badminton is played regularly at the Gulf English School,

Kuwait Netball Association hold friendly games each Monday and regularly travel throughout the Gulf to compete in tournaments. They can be contacted through Sarah or Marilyn on 562 2701 or 562 1701

For golfers, there are a couple of sand courses, so bring your clubs.

For football speak to the Kuwait Academicals FC via Mike Finn on 562 1701 ext 139 or mobile 986 8287, Billy O'Reilly on 661 9574 or Martyn Stein on 563 7348

Rugby players are catered for with Kuwait Nomads Rugby Club who meet at the Ahmedi pitches and regularly (and quite successfully) tour the Gulf.

Kuwait is also packed with dive clubs; Dive Caroline (PADI) based at Messilah Beach Hotel, Tel/Fax 562 5313; BBR Dive Center (PADI) based in Salwa Area 6 and diving out of Beneder Resort, Tel 565 1075 & Mantas Dive Club (BSAC) diving out of Kiran but also involved in lots of social activities when not diving - they can be contacted via John Morley on Tel/Fax 539 4937

Expatriate cricket in Kuwait has been established since 1948 when Hubara Cricket Club was formed. Whilst cricket may be the quintessential English game, Kuwait Casuals Cricket Club offers competitive cricket to nationals from all Commonwealth countries. Present membership, whilst predominantly British, also includes Aussies, Sri Lankans and a West Indian. The Asian community provides stiff opposition in a range of sponsored tournaments and there are regular visits by Royal Navy ships. Essentially though, the club aims to foster the tradition of fair play (they lose a lot) combined with a burgeoning social calendar. For information, contact the Club President, Nigel Tatham on Tel/Fax 532 5639 or Club Treasurer, Geoff Robinson on Tel/Fax 371 5620

There is apparently some good fishing off the shores of Kuwait, however, my tally to date is one six inch fish.

Amateur theatricals are abundant too, with two theatre groups putting on a half dozen or so shows each every year. Kuwait Players have a clubhouse in Rumaithiya and can be contacted via Ken Winston on home tel 562 5316 or work tel 574 0256, whilst Kuwait Little Theatre, have a purpose built theatre in Ahmadi, sponsored by KOC. They can be contacted on tel: 398 2680

Even though Kuwait is one of the hottest places on earth, ice skating (and Hockey) is available at a rink in the city.

There are several English language cinemas (some better than others) and a few drive in cinemas showing mostly Hindi Films.

At the time of writing trips into the desert are still dangerous as mines are always being discovered, however desert BBQs are a regular occurrence. Ask around - someone usually has an ordnance map or knows someone who has one.

One of the major weekend time fillers is a trip to Bahrain for about KD65 including flight and accommodation. This gives you a chance to restock some of the items not available in Kuwait.

Out in Doha there is also Entertainment City, which is like Blackpool without beer and to a lesser extent Shaab and Showbiz fairgrounds, these are run by "Touristic Enterprises", although tourism as such is nonexistent.

These are numerous and diverse, and further details are available at the Embassy, however some of note are:

The British Business Forum - tel. 240 5346, fax. 240 5348

Kuwait Caledonian Society - Nanette McCulloch tel/fax. 562 1019

Kuwait Welsh Society - tel. 564 0256

Kuwait Irish Society - Martin - tel. 243 1099 or Martina Conway on 372 8345

ANZAK - tel. 371 7827 or 563 3538 or E-mail John Levins

The British Ladies Society - tel. 539 4207 or E-mail Elaine Hanlon

American Women’s League

For details of these and others, Kuwait Clubs Calendar can be found here

There is also a branch of the Scouts who desperately require Leaders - they can be contacted via Neville Dutton onTel/Fax 565 9136 & Friends of Guides can be reached through Penny Copeland on Tel: 562 5491 or Fax: 565 7278 or Janet Hubbard c/o The English School or Tel: 563 7205 (note - the scout group mentioned here is British run. There is an official scout presence in Kuwait, but is locals only and they camp in the city!)

For a country with so much coastline (290km) in relation to its size, Kuwait has relatively few public beaches and even fewer where Western women would feel comfortable, hence the glut of private beach clubs, the membership of which start at around KD180 per year at Messilah Beach Hotel, and at which water sports abound as well as other sporting facilities. The beach here is sort of reconstituted, being two large sand pits, filled apparently with imported French sand, and has three or four steps down to the sea, as well as a jetty and pier. That said public beaches are available, but the amount of rubbish on them makes them unpleasant and the local jet ski fraternity make going into the sea even more hazardous - there have been several jet ski related fatalities.

One of the favourite pastimes for Kuwaitis is eating. Obesity is rife, and a quick look through the yellow pages "restaurant" section show you why. There is even a street is Salmiya that is commonly referred to as "Restaurant Street". For the frugal, Shwarma shops appear on every street corner, disguised with all manner of misspelling of "Restaurant", curry shops abound and there are an infinite number of fast food outlets, the best of which are Fuddruckers, TGI Friday’s and Wolfgang Puck, all on the Salmiya coast road, there was even a fish and chip shop, but this seems to have folded. However for the more discerning palate, there are several high class eateries, some of which are listed below:

Sea Food restaurants can be found in the Holiday Inn and Meridien Hotels.

Chinese and Italian are served at the SAS Radisson which also hosts "Al Boom", which is a Dhow turned into a restaurant, but is very expensive and should be used for special occasions only (unless someone else is paying).

The best Indian restaurant -Tipu Sultan, can be found on the top floor of the Oasis Hotel, with great Japanese being available back at the Holiday Inn.

The best of the rest include:

The Tourist (Indian) - Good food and reasonable prices, tel. 241 1702

Koryo Kwan - A Korean restaurant in the Carlton Tower Hotel (ask for the "Special" tea) tel. 245 2740

Another Korean recommended in Jan 2005 is Han Kuk Kwan Restaurant located inside the New Park Hotel in Hawalli

Bangkok Garden (Thai & Filipino) tel. 241 6703

White Elephant (Thai) By the Safat post office.

In Mangaf there is the small, but excellent "Golden & Silver Spoons" who do home delivery - 372 6695

Mughal Mahal (Indian) second only to Tipu Sultan have two locations, one in the city - 242 5131 and one in Fahaheel - 391 5550

For Chinese try Gulf Royal with three locations, Fahaheel - 392 5390, Salmiya - 571 0448 and Hawalli - 262 2770

Mexican is served at Chi Chi’s on the Salmiya coast, tel. 562 5811

Prego serve Italian food in Salmiya High Street, tel. 572 2364

Also in Salmiya is La Fresh, which has wonderful international cuisine and can be reached on ??????? (not listed - must go there again sometime)

Beit 7 does a good range of High Quality Aussie Tucker as well as other Pacific Rim dishes and comes highly recommended. (Between the city centre churches) they can be reached on 245 0871

It is also worth bearing in mind that outside the hotels, most restaurants will do home deliveries, often for free.

The idea does not seem to have caught on here apart from in the large hotels, with the exception of black bin bags that are ‘Fly Tipped’ at the side of the road.

Once you have completed the residency procedure, you become eligible for free health care that enables you to use the state clinics, until then you are at the mercy of the private sector, so ensure that you are sufficiently well covered. Your employer should provide medical cover (but probably not dental unless he is very generous), if not, sign up with one of the major private insurers like BUPA or PPP before leaving home. The standards of both state and private are excellent with new equipment and well-trained staff.. Presently there are more than 3200 government doctors, several hundred private doctors and seventeen general and specialized hospitals with approximately 4300 beds. State clinics provide primary health care and are located in all residential areas throughout Kuwait. They offer free medical and dental care for all. There are 60 clinics and health centres in Kuwait staffed by over 630 doctors. These clinics are equipped to handle emergencies as well as routine medical problems. The clinic doctor is a general practitioner who will either provide treatment at the clinic or refer you to one of the general hospitals. The smaller clinics are open six days a week from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and the larger clinics (polyclinics) are open for emergencies till midnight, seven days a week. The local clinics are required to treat only those people residing in the area who have registered with the clinic and have a health card issued by that clinic. In practice, however, they will probably treat any case which they consider an emergency, regardless of the situation and rarely nothing more than a Civil I.D. is required to be shown. If you are only visiting the country and you have a medical emergency, you can seek medical care in any general hospital. Some of the government clinics: Salmiya Clinic (572-3741), Salmiya Polyclinic (572-3500), Farwaniya Polyclinic (472-6033), Hawalli Polyclinic (261-1645), Faiha Polyclinic (254-5188), Shamiya clinic (484-2090) .

Some people prefer to use private doctors. There are ten private clinics mostly employing expat medical staff, three of which are in the Salmiya area: New Mowasat, tel 571-1533, Kuwait Clinic, tel 573 9277, fax 572 9165 & International Clinic, tel 574 5111, fax 575 4056. They provide comprehensive services. Both operate outpatient clinics during the morning, afternoon and evening hours. On the first visit, a patient pays a fee to receive an ID card and to see a doctor. Medicine and laboratory fees are additional. All Private clinics provide emergency treatment twenty-four hours a day, with one expat having her appendix out three days before she was due to go exit only. Also worth noting is that some of the above clinics are named on health insurance documents.

For normal use, the local clinics are adequate, but for more delicate matters (cases of VD cannot be dealt with in a state clinic, as this would mean adultery leading to a prison term followed by deportation), or if you feel the local clinics look dirty, then the private clinics are the place to go, Of the above, recommendations are Kuwait Clinic, whose dentist, Dr. Rayan is polite, chatty and above all, painless, the International Clinic who offer great Physio from Sharon, and the New Mowasat have a wonderful maternity wing!

A large number of pharmacies are available and work in rotation to provide an all-night service.

Opticians abound in Kuwait, with the bulk being in the "Opticians Souq" along Fahd Al Salem Street in the city where a pair of prescription "designer" glasses can be bought for around KD50.The is also a "Dentist Souq" located in Salmiya, look for a round building, around the corner from Next on Salem Al Mubarak Street.

If you require more care than is available at the clinics, you will be referred to one of the general or specialized government hospitals. For all of these, you must be referred by a clinic or private physician, except in the case of emergencies. If you are required to stay in the hospital, you can apply for a private room at an additional charge of KD 5 per night. There are a number of well equipped hospitals available, and although they were looted during the occupation, the Ministry of Health has replaced equipment and most organizations are back to normal. As regards health care, the Ministry of Health has divided Kuwait into the following health regions: Farwaniya, Jahra, Adan, Hawalli, Aasmah (The Capital) Health Regions and Al Sabah Medical Specialty Centre. Specialized treatment is available at the latter. A number of Kuwaiti businessmen and women have established specialized medical centres as donations to the Ministry of Health. Some of the most notable of these are: Thunayyan Alghanim's "Center for Gastroenterology" at Amiri Hospital. Hussain Makki Al Juma's "Kuwait Cancer Control Centre",Yousef Al Marzouq's "Centre for Islamic Medicine" , Hamed Al Eisa's "Organ Transplant Centre" and "Al Babtain Burn Care Centre" at Al Sabah Medical Specialty Centre.

Even alternative medicine is practiced; the Chest Hospital in Shuwaikh includes an acupuncture clinic specializing in pain relief, weight loss, and can help you quit smoking. For all specialist consultations, you will need a referral from a physician.

Some government hospitals :

Mubarak Al-Kabir hospital in Jabriya, tel 531-2700 (recommended for expats)

Sabah hospital, tel 481-2000/481-5000

Al-Adan hospital, tel 394-0600

Amiri hospital, tel 245-0005

Farwaniya hospital, tel 488-8000

Food shopping is diverse in Kuwait, ranging from "bakalas" (corner shops) to supermarkets, such as Co-ops and Sultan Centers, and through to wholesale markets. Bakalas tend to be used more for emergency rations, although some are quite well stocked.

Co-op stores are found in each "area" of Kuwait and are government subsidised. Around these you will generally find at least on fast food outlet, a bakery, hardware store, Gulf Bank and a post office with some having a playground for children. The largest, best stocked Co-ops can be found in Mishref, Rawda, Rumaithiya, Shamiya, Fahaheel & Salmiya. They are more usually frequented by the stricter of Muslims, therefore dress should be moderated and shorts are frowned upon.

Sultan Centres are located in Fahaheel, Salwa, Shuwaikh, Salmiya, Ahmedi and the largest and newest in Sharq - there is also a wholesale Sultan Centre in Farwaniya. These are extremely westernised, although the American management have now vanished, and as a consequence stock control isn’t what it used to be - Bran Flakes have been known to disappear for six weeks at a time.

The quality of all the supermarkets is quite high and the choice more varied than the UK however shopping around can obtain a wide price difference. Most products on supermarket shelves are local but if it’s imported it will tend to be American. The few items that are British, such as Colmans mustard & Branston pickle disappear within a day never to be seen again. There are other items of course that some expats can’t live without. One example is Marmite, which has to be brought in either from UK or on shopping trips to Bahrain. Meat prices are reasonable with imported meat doing well; Irish Beef works out at around KD1.350/kilo whereas chicken breast fillets are about KD2.500/kilo. Local lamb is available but having seen it in a local butcher, I’ve gone off it. As a coastal city, fish and sea food is cheap & bountiful (600fils for a kilo of prawns when in season) and for only a few fils more the fishmonger will prepare your selection however you like it. Cheap local fruit and vegetables are available such as cabbage at 600fils/kilo, but quality is variable. High quality imported fruit such as apples are 600-800 fils/kilo and veg such as Dutch Capsicum comes in at a staggering KD2.500/kilo! HP Beans are 400fils for a large tin, a half litre of skimmed milk is 200fils, a French stick is 200fils (Arabic flat bread is a lot cheaper!) 4 dozen eggs are 1KD, a tin of tuna starts at 265fils and a pack of Anchor butter is 560fils. Almost as if to make up for the lack of alcohol, all other drinks are very cheap; Cola is 100fils a can (or 1KD for a case of 24x33cl bottles) and a 1,5 litre bottle of water is 150fils. Stop press: Due to the repeal of an unpopular law, alcohol free beer is now available at between 150 - 300 fils per 300ml can/bottle and City Centre supermarket occasionally have "specials" at less than 1KD per case!

All weights and measures are metric so learn your 2.2 times table.

Both the Meat Market and Fruit and Vegetable Market are located in Shuwaikh. Fish can be bought at the fish markets in Shuwaikh, Fahaheel and on the Arabian Gulf Road opposite the Amiri hospital beside the Sharq Souq. Fresh Zubaidi (similar to Plaice), Hamour (Cod Substitute), and the famous huge Gulf shrimp are available there (some as big as a small lobster). The sellers will clean and fillet the fish for no extra price. Fresh Gulf shrimp is sold from August through January. Note - Cod is sometimes available at the Sultan Center!

The cost of living is about on a par with the UK but most shops have a Grand Sale in both March and November and offer plenty bargains. For the more cost conscious there is a weekend market, behind the nurseries on the fourth ring road and the ‘old souq’ in the city, selling all the usual junk. A scour through the small ads and supermarket notice boards will find second hand goods on offer by departing expats and car boot sales abound. As is customary in Arab countries, haggling is a prerequisite of shopping unless a sign says "Fixed Price". Electrical/electronic goods such as computers, stereos and cameras are widely available and tend to be at UK prices minus VAT, the only exception seems to be video recorders at a laughable KD40. UK Newspapers and magazine prices are sheer robbery, with KD1.100 for a Telegraph (OK the local paper is good but it doesn’t have an appointment section on a Thursday).

For those who are bargain hunting, shops of one kind tend to gather around each other, ending up with the likes of the furniture souq, the stationery souq, the electrical souq and the clothing souq. It is merely a matter of finding one, then trading him off against the others.

As above, all the household/hardware stores are gathered in one area, namely Shuwaikh, and are represented by Ikea, A to Z, and True Value, whilst around the corner in Al Rai district are Landmark Kuwait Home Depot (KHD) who sell MFI and Ace Hardware.

For the furniture souq a trip to Farwaniya is called for. Once you know where the PACI (Civil ID) office is located, the furniture souq is directly to the East of it, taking almost the entire block. Here you will find all the large items, such as sofas, beds, wardrobes, etc. Two key shops to look for are Galleria - a sort of mall, and Midas (underneath American Mattress) who specialize in Sauder Furniture from America. Also in this block is a new branch of Sears.

A new shopping mall has recently been completed called "Sharq Souq" and is based around a new marina by the Seif’s Palace, Sultan Center and Debenhams have their prime slots at either end and it looks like being the place to be. For those looking for an investment, gold is a good buy in Kuwait, being sold primarily by weight only ( I recently bought two wedding rings in 24carat white gold for 20KD ). The Gold Souq is located immediately behind the old souq (from Safat Square, look for a huge Toyota sign). Jewelry can also be made to your own design, although this will cost a little more, though your name in Arabic for a pendant, is reasonably priced and makes a nice gift.

Household electrical/electronic goods are sold in three main locations, Fahaheel electrical souq, Souq Al Kabir in the city and Fahd Al Salem Street - between the Optician Souq and the Sheraton roundabout. The computer Souq is in Hawally, based around Tunis street and Ibn Khaldoun Street, beyond JC Penny's.

All the usual Western clothes are available in Kuwait however either the quality is poor, or, where the quality is acceptable, the price is high. There’s no middle ground such as Burton Group, etc, although Marks & Spencer have recently opened in Salmiya and still have UK price tags on most items for comparison. It is a good idea therefore to bring all that you feel you will need for your first stint and top up as required on your leave. Due to climatic conditions, clothes need to be washed more often, a typical day seeing two changes of clothes (work and home), so a greater amount is needed to see a week out. If your flat has an automatic washing machine and a clothes line, this will see laundry washed & dry in a matter of minutes in summer (a tumble dryer is recommended for winter though). Laundry and dry-cleaning services are ten-a-penny as are "Tailors" who will take up / let down trousers, etc. for half a Dinar. Genuine tailors can be found in the "Material Souq" in the city (behind the "Stationery Souq" near the roundabout mosque). These will run up a made to measure suit from about 40KD. "Master Hand" comes highly recommended, tel 243 6296. This is also the place to go for women who like to make their own dresses, etc. the quality and variety is without equal, and for a social event, "Stitch and Bitch" sessions are a great get together; contact Deb Douglas on 371 1318 x 110 for those who are inept with a needle, there are womens’ tailors here too. If buying new clothes to bring out, try to buy items that have a high natural fibre content, e.g., cotton / wool as these will breath more freely than man made fabrics. In winter (November to March) a jumper or light jacket may be required; 20°C seems cold after 50°C and for the more athletic, a track suit is recommended to prevent cooling off too quick. Women are not expected to cover up as much as say Saudi and it is a strange Westerner indeed who would wear a black bin bag in these temperatures, but there’s no accounting for taste. Eastern designed/made clothes can be bought at reasonable rates but for western designer stuff you’ll pay that bit extra, especially if shopping at the big name stores such as Next, BHS, Debenhams, etc. but for Marks and Spencer slight seconds SANA is hard to beat. Female expats that are larger than average should consider bringing extra underwear with them, as there is very little available in anything bigger than a C cup, and even for more modest sizes, you may be a little daunted by the prospect of a fitting by male sales staff!  For Babies and maternity wear, there are no fewer than 13 branches of Mothercare and Landmark have a good selection, in Salmiya, Fahaheel and Shuwaikh.

As previously mentioned (and speaking from experience) a sunburnt scalp is extremely uncomfortable, so if you suffer in the UK, you will certainly need at least a knotted hankie here.

Note that men are expected to wear suits and ties for business and formal social occasions and the old Tux gets a few outings a year at the various balls.

Tickets back to UK are generally higher than UK prices, but out of season, discounts can be found, especially if you are prepared to take a diversion, via say, Prague, Budapest, Moscow, etc. on their state airlines. Seats are often booked well in advance, so for Summer holidays, Christmas and Ramadan/Eid, make sure you have a ticket before booking you leave. As an alternative, several expats buy a return to Cyprus in Kuwait and a package for the family in UK and meet up with loved ones there. Again, try to use a FF card as passengers have been refused seats.

Of important note, is that if you are a government employee, you will need an exit permit to leave Kuwait. This is however, usually a formality to ensure that you have paid all your subsidized bills before leaving.

Everyone knows the joke that goes "Give me a haircut like Roger Moore" ......... "He does if he comes here". This rings true in Kuwait.
For women, the beauty salons frequented by expats tend to have western trained stylists (Cutting Edge comes recommended), however for men, you have three choices: (1) Pakistani Barber - one cut, 1.5KD, (2) Egyptian Barber - three "styles" and 3KD, (3) wife or friend with clippers - pot luck but free.

Under normal circumstances you will not see anything that will poison you or attempt to eat you, however a trip into the desert will find scorpions and camel spiders. Around the house, if you are unlucky, you will find cockroaches - do not squash them, as if they are female, this will release their eggs - use a spray such as Raid or Pif Paf. On the roads, particularly away from built up areas you will also find locusts, as they tend to fly at about mid windscreen level. They are particularly difficult to remove as they vaporize on impact and become baked on due to the heat. During the Locust season (late Spring) birds chase the insects and tend to make a nasty mess when also flying at windscreen height. 2001 saw a plague of ladybirds that somehow got into the water system, making it totally undrinkable.

Kuwait has its own Labour Laws, which are valid whether you have a contract or not, however a written contract will supercede the Labour Law.

A woman's financial and personal assets are hers alone, and husbands, brothers, and fathers have no claim on them. Many women have used their resources to build great fortunes. Most women accept their seemingly secondary status because they are aware that it gives them a private and discreet power that is not initially obvious to the observer. At home and in the rearing of their children, they usually dominate. Women have also become important in the economic and political fields as well. Their seeming obscurity and dependence is also a prime factor in establishing and strengthening the male, the family, and personal honor and prestige, which they can use to their own ends.

Do expect Arabs to sit, talk, and stand closer than people in the West do. What Westerners consider an intimate distance is here only social and friendly.

Do expect to be touched more frequently by members of the same sex. This is an expression of friendship.

Do accept as normal the occasional use of influential connections to accomplish tasks more rapidly.

Do not venture into some of the less western areas wearing inappropriate attire, this also applies to standing outside mosques and visiting the Grand Mosque.

Do expect to shake hands much more frequently. On entering a room or meeting a group of people, it is expected that you will shake hands with everyone, except small children. On social occasions, you will probably also need to shake hands again when you leave.

Do not expect all promises or decisions to be put in writing. In some situations, you will have to accept an oral promise. This is partly because the written word carries a weight of meaning greater than Westerners are accustomed to.

Do not be surprised at being given an indirect answer of insha' Allah (God willing). Insha' Allah usually indicates the good intentions of the speaker.

Do accept "chai" - tea when offered - it is considered impolite when refused (note: the cup is usually the size of an egg cup and contains about three heaped teaspoons of sugar and sometimes honey and lemon)

Do avoid some subjects in public. Certain topics are generally not considered appropriate or acceptable for discussion in public. These may include political issues, religion, alcohol, total women's liberation, abortion, and male-female relationships, such as dating. Many people are very sensitive about these topics, and problems could arise should you try to discuss them.

Note: The information here is given as a guide only since changes to the procedure can occur without notice. Generally changes are small but can lead to frustration, so please remain calm, it will happen eventually! Also it can depend upon just how helpful an Official wants to be, get one on his "off-day" and you have a problem! GOOD LUCK!

Obtain 30 off 3x4 cm passport photos and 8 off 2x3 cm card photos, 4 of which must be without spectacles, if you wear them of course.

Start a file to keep all relevant paperwork. In this file be sure to keep several copies of every piece of paper that comes your way, along with your photographs. Always take this file with you during the process. Always keep photographs with you all times. ALWAYS have your Passport with you!

Obtain a sponsorship letter from your employer. This letter, with copies of passport details and N.O.C must be taken almost everywhere.

If you have sorted your accommodation by now, another document required is your apartment’s Rental Agreement. Put this, along with several copies, in your file for safe keeping

You now need a Kuwaiti (or Arabic speaking) "minder" to guide you through the system. Try to get your Employer to assign one of his people.

1.1 - Try to get the security check (finger prints) under way first. It will take about two weeks to be processed. Located at SHARQ (Near all the toy-shops and the BMW showroom). You will need all your original forms from your employer, plus 2 copies, your passport and 2 photos. A number will be attached to the outside of your passport, do not remove it. This is the reference for your results. Cost 1KD and dirty fingers, there is no soap to wash the ink off!!

1.2  - A further 4 forms are required for your medical. Register with the General Medical Board at the clinic behind the Meridian Hotel.

1.3 - Chest x-ray at chest hospital, 2 photos required. Ask when results are expected (3 to 5 days).

1.4 - Hearing test at Sabah hospital (ENT Clinic only open Mondays and Wednesdays). Whilst you are there, try to get a blood group certificate (unless you carry a donor card or other valid document showing your group). Go to the blood laboratory on the 3rd floor. You need a blood group certificate for a driving license and civil ID. Whilst there, give a Urine Sample, the result will be given within a few minutes.

1.5 - Collect x-ray results 3 to 5 days after the x-ray was taken.

1.6 - Collect all your medical results together, make sure you have plenty of copies and go back to the General Medical Board clinic. (You will need a 2KD revenue stamp, available at Post Offices, but be sure to buy it first thing in the morning as they sell out quickly). Whilst you are there give a blood sample for the AIDS test, 2 photos are required. At the clinic a doctor will look at your results, listen to your chest and give you an eye sight test. If the examiner can speak English you will see a normal eye test chart, if not you will see an "E" which will face left, right, up or down.

1.7 - Collect your medical clearance paperwork from the General Medical Board clinic two days later.

1.8 - Collect your AIDS test result from AL WAKF complex ( Ministry of Public Health 1st Floor Room 17, near the Cairo Street building of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs ).

1.9 - Collect your police clearance certificate and other paperwork from the finger print place, 2 weeks later.

Note:- Be sure to make plenty copies of relevant paperwork.

1.10 - Back to your employer’s office with all your paperwork. A copy of your flat lease, agreement, copies of Fingerprint forms , copies of medical forms ( incl. AIDS test result ), 2 photographs , your original N.O.C, copies of your passport ,10KD revenue stamp (per year) and your passport are all required. Phew!!, confused? so were we! It will take a few days to process your visa after which you can collect your passport from your employer. Note: this is not like Saudi - You get to keep your passport!

  Civil ID

2.1 - For your Civil I.D. collect a form from the PACI machine in any Co-op Store (cost 250 fils) get it completed in ARABIC by your employer who will also add an "official" stamp. (Photocopy the form!)

2.2 - First you will need 4 off 3cm X 4cm photographs (without spectacles if you wear them), a copy of your fingerprint form, photocopy of your Passport showing Residency Stamp, and the Civil I.D. application form.

2.3 - Take the completed envelope to the PACI office in Farwaniya. Get a number stamped on it at reception and go to the waiting area. From here the numbers will be called out until it is your turn. Now comes the tricky bit; the numbers are only called in Arabic, so try and sit next to a friendly Arabic speaker, or the person with a number a few less than you.

2.4 - When you are sure your number is up, you will be taken to another hall where you sit in another queue and shuffle down the chairs until you are directed to a desk with a PACI officer who will enter your details onto a computer. You are then issued a receipt and, in theory, you can telephone the Ministry quoting the number and chase up the progress of your Application.

2.4 - When your receipt number is confirmed as ready you will be told to go down to the basement of the BEHBEHANI Building in SHARQ with your receipt, where your Civil I.D. will be issued.

Driving Licenses:

You can drive in Kuwait under an International Driving License if you have arrived on a Visit/Business Visa but NOT an N.O.C. The International License must be INSURED and only lasts the length of your Visa, normally 1 month.

If you have entered Kuwait under an N.O.C you can apply for a temporary Driving License until your Residency procedures are completed AND you have your CIVIL I.D. after which a Full License can be obtained, this takes about 2 MONTHS. So you should apply for a 2 MONTH temporary Driving License.

The procedure is as follows ( the U.K. Embassy have a write up on this ):

Obtain a translation of your U.K. Driving License. Take a photocopy of your License. The U.K. Embassy can do this for you.

The translation must be attested. The U.K. Embassy will do this as well. Now the cost of this should be 15KD. But some people got it done cheaper for 12.5KD!

Do all this at the U.K. Embassy at the same time you can REGISTER at the Embassy as a U.K. citizen residing in Kuwait.

U.K. Embassy opening hours 8am till 2pm Saturday till Wednesday. ( NOT During Ramadan!).

The following requires an ARABIC speaking " Minder " to help you through the System.

Next go to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs ( located in Cairo Street ) and get your translation "attested" AGAIN! Cost 4KD.

Now the next step is to obtain an Application form from a Police Traffic Department. Here is where you could run into difficulty since you are supposed to go to the Traffic Department in the area in which you live. ( For SALWA it is JABRIYA ).

However, many people have managed to get sorted out at SHUWAIKH Traffic Department. It really depends upon the Official who deals with your Application.

Get the "Minder" to fill in the Application form in ARABIC, English will NOT do.

Report to the Senior Officer and he will ask you to see the Director of the Traffic Department who, hopefully, will sign to say you do not need to take a Kuwaiti Driving Test.

The remaining steps are really in the hands of your "Minder" and Luck. But all the process is possible at Shuwaikh. You end up with a 2 -month Driving License.

The permanent License is only obtainable when you have got your Residency AND Civil I.D., an eyesight test (in addition to the one you will need for your Residency) and a Blood Group Certificate. Again use your "Minder" to get through the System.

Photo-copy everything!!

NOTE 1: YOU CANNOT GET YOUR PERMANENT DRIVING LICENSE WITHOUT YOUR CIVIL I.D. PLUS A LOT OF MONEY. SOME HAVE PAID 30KD FOR THE PLEASURE OF A PERMANENT DRIVING LICENSE!! ( lasts 10 years ).

Further Reading:

For greater detail on all of the above it is highly recommended to buy a copy of ‘Kuwait Pocket Guide’, published annually at KD2.750, it contains lots of useful, including important phone numbers, handy phrases and a businessman’s yellow pages. It can be found at all bookshops and Sultan Centres.